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Sarasota Herald-Tribune

"Ooh la la!" describes the food at Ooh La La!
January 11, 2002

Ooh La La! may be the area's most-accurately named bistro

Don't be fooled by this tiny storefront bistro, crammed into a corner of the Island Shopping Center. Chef Damon Presswood has brought his 13 years of experience at Cafe L'Europe to full fruition here. Long and narrow, the dining room proceeds from a stylish bar and passes by the cooking area. Soft white walls are adorned with French-themed prints. Decor is minimal, but there's a quiet, sophisticated air about the place.

We bypassed the smoked salmon and escargot for appetizers of pate, shrimp, soup and black-bean cakes. The latter ($8) ranks among the best I've ever tasted -- plump and moist inside, crispy on the outside, with just enough spice to complement the creaminess of the beans without obliterating their taste. They were served with a scrumptious homemade salsa, sour cream and guacamole.

The goose liver pate ($8) also was delicious, studded with black truffles and served with aspic and crushed pistachios. Presentation was lacking -- just a slice of pate with a few water crackers and one tiny cornichon. There should be a little more ooh la la displayed here for something so flavorful, don't you think?

Lobster Bisque ($6.50) was appropriately rich and had a twist on the seasoning that made it stand out. The only disappointment was the Shrimp New Orleans ($9) -- four medium-sized shrimp served in a casserole of garlic butter and cocktail sauce -- were overcooked and there was nothing about the sauce that distinctively shouted "New Orleans!"

Absolutely wonderful French bread comes to your table piping hot from the oven. After devouring the first basket, our server asked if we wanted more with our entrees. We said "yes," but were finishing our dinners when it finally arrived. There were diners at only three tables, so the delay was unwarranted.

Entrees are served with salads of lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and sprouts, with a choice of blue cheese or vinaigrette dressing. If you care for a more substantial salad, there are other offerings, including Caesar salad.

The evening's special was Grouper Floribbean with a pistachio crust, but on our server's recommendation, we tried the Potato-Crusted Grouper ($24) instead. The fish had a subtle mustard coating beneath the crispy potato exterior, which enhanced the flavor. However, my guest thought the fish was slightly overcooked, which did make it a bit dry.

Our server also recommended the Tournedos Henri IV ($24) and Sauteed Sea Scallops ($22). Twin tournedos of beef, topped with artichoke hearts, were perfectly medium rare, and the homemade Bearnaise sauce was absolutely heavenly, although a bit thin in texture.

There were so many sighs of pleasure coming from across the table that I had to beg for a bite of the scallops. Ah, but then I understood! They were plump, perfectly cooked, and redolent of garlic. This was definitely the best entree, but if you order it, be prepared to share, for the aroma will drive your companions wild.

Also a hit were the Garlic-Crusted Lobster Tails ($27) served in a beurre blanc. The tails were medium in size and perfectly cooked.

Various accompaniments included asparagus, carrots, spicy red cabbage and potatoes gratin. It's nice to have as much care lavished on the vegetables as on the meat or fish. It's a sign of a truly good kitchen.

We sampled all three desserts -- a luscious Creme Caramel topped with fresh raspberries, Triple Chocolate Cake and a light-textured Key Lime Pie. The creme caramel is a holdover favorite from Chez Andre, which had occupied this spot for 11 years.

Service was prompt and professional (with the exception of the bread snafu) without being stuffy. We dined at an early hour, so noise was not a problem, but I can imagine it gets rather noisy if all the tables are occupied.

There is a wine list, and the entire menu, including baguettes and croissants, is available for take-out.

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